Micro Swiss All Metal Hotend Kit (for CR-6 SE/CR-6 SE MAX)

As I have been slowly gaining more experience with 3D printing, I started hitting some snags when trying to print on glass. After a lot of trial and error, I thought I was getting close. Then, the exiting extruder clogged, impressively. I swapped out the original CR10S Pro V1 print head with this one, and it’s been working perfectly! Just as the directions indicated, it was a simple drop-in replacement. I have not had any clogging, or other issues to speak of.I am now getting very consistent prints with PLA directly on glass! This is super cool because the parts just pop off the bed as it cools.Adding this, in case anyone else is having issues with the CR10S Pro V1 and glass:After some trial and error and seeing my 1st layers being so close to the bed, nothing can be extruded too not close enough to work, I am now sure that the inductive sensor is at fault. If I warm up everything, re-home the printer prior to every print, it works well. (Hoping that the Tiny Machines 3D BL Touch Kit for Creality CR-10S Pro 3D Printers will fix this ... fingers-crossed)

Purchased this to replace the stock hot end on a CR10s pro v1. Works excellent printing PETG and PLA. You will have to adjust the stock height sensor or Z offset (I did the latter for now) as the height from the bed is more than stock. Once that's dialed in you're off printing. Followed the video directions for installation and reducing the retraction to 4mm and have no stringing and prints better than the stock ever did. Saved replacing the entire printer out of frustration on the stock hotend.

After using this Microswiss hot end on my CR10S Pro, and dealing with issues from my other printer running a V6, I feel that I now see the benefit of this design over the V6. The heatbreak on the MicroSwiss is much shorter and since the heatsink "dips" into the heatbreak it is even shorter still. I have never had heat creep with this hot end yet and I have run PLA, PETG and ABS. This short heatbreak seems to really help keep heat creep at bay, whereas the V6 with an all metal heattube which I also have, tends to require more attention to avoid clogs and it seems to require more force to extrude. I suspect the longer steel heatbreak on my V6 is holding and migrating the heat causing the melt area to extend higher up the tube, though I don't find it above where the heat sink starts. In any case I prefer the microswiss over the V6 now hands down.I have also had to contact their customer service on an issue and found they are excellent and get back quickly.As an aside, I think the ultimate direct drive would be a MicroSwiss heat tube + block mated to a compact extruder/hotend like the aero or hemera. I'd buy one of those today if such a thing existed.1.5yr update - the MicroSwiss is still going strong and it's been almost problem free. Clogs are pretty well a thing of the past though they can still happen. When the filament gets stuck it's usually because I didn't remove it correctly. The way I remove the filament is to heat the nozzle to about 20°C below the operating temp and then push it in a bit before pulling the filament out. If that doesn't work then I just heat it to operating temp and push it so some filament is extruded, then let it cool down about 20°C and then pull the filament out. No issues with clogs that way, and probably the best upgrade I've done on my CR10S Pro (v1).Original Review:I have been running this hot end on my CR10S Pro for the past couple months, and have had no major issues with clogs due to heat creep. Installation went off without a hitch in about 10 minutes, just have to be careful not to strip out the grub screw holes in the aluminum heat sink, and tighten things when it is hot (this is the same for any hot end). I picked this up because I wanted to print with higher temps and did not like having PTFE in the hot end when running above 240C. I don't notice any significant difference in print quality, but it has been reliable and looks well machined. I suspect that the nozzles are better quality though, and would probably buy their plated nozzles in the future.The docs I have seen for this hot end specify that retraction should be kept under 4mm, however I have been running it at 5.2mm @ 45mm/s without any issues. I tried 4mm but there was too much fine stringing, so I feel that is too conservative and actually would force me to find something else if it really could not go higher than 4mm.

I was experiencing a lot of oozing on my factory installed hot end. I installed this hot end hoping to eliminate the oozing and improve print quality even though print quality with the factory hot end wasn't bad. This hot end greatly reduced, didn't eliminate, the oozing but with no noticeable increase in print quality. Things I don't like about it 1) expensive for what you get, 2) compression couplers are terrible. I tightened fairly tight and had them come loose during print twice. I had to torque down extremely tight to over come. In doing so I bent the mounting tab which threw the strain gauge contact sensor out of wack. If this happens, you can either try to bend it back (my solution) or adjust the potentiometer to recalibrate. 3) It takes a special silicon boot. I have a bag of Ender 3 and CR6 boots and none work with this hot end. I need to buy spares from Micro Swiss.

Exceeded my expectations. Was concerned with the amount of negative opinions about this product. Thought it's a gimmick but all metal hot end really makes for cleaner, clog-free prints. Install went quick and painless. No more filament oozing out of the top of the hot end. Original creality hotend was notorious for that. So far great.

More issues with this hotend than the original stock hotend. Constantly jams with regular pla, the heartbreak starts leaking after a few hours of printing and covers the heat block with polymer. The heartbreak is difficult to disassemble and reassemble on the machine, so I usually end up taking it off, which results in other breakages and waste (broke a thermistor the first time, ruined a nozzle the second time). Not to mention I had to order it 3 separate times because the first 2 times I was sent the wrong hotend despite the package being labeled correctly. After less than 300 hours print time it is jammed again, this time I’m taking it off and sending it back